It was baking class day and St. Patrick’s Day. A two-fer! In that case, we’d need to make two things: scones, for a little celebration of Irish culture, and lemon curd, to make good use of the beautiful citrus piled up in the markets right now.
“What are scones?” my son asked. I think I may have gasped. Clearly I have been remiss in providing my children with a proper education in baked goods.
“They’re kind of like sweet biscuits. But not too sweet. They’re usually eaten with tea and jam, clotted cream, or some kind of fruit curd.”
I explained that scones, while not originally from Ireland, are made and enjoyed all over the British Isles. The original scone, from Scotland, was round, flat, and unleavened, and cooked on a griddle.
“This is like history!” (My son again)
“When chemical leaveners became available in the 19th century, the breads could be made a bit lighter. Now we use baking powder and bake the scones in the oven.”
We took a look at the recipe.
We had baked biscuits together in a previous session, so they understood why we would need to cut the butter (Irish, of course!), into cubes and put it in the freezer while we measured out the rest of the ingredients.
Somebody finally discovered the backlight feature on the scale, so we had many eager hands involved in the weighing process.
Flour, salt, sugar and leaveners went into the bowl.
“Make sure you pay attention to the baking soda and baking powder measurements,” I reminded them, “as they aren’t interchangeable.”
All of the dry ingredients were whisked together.
Then they used a pastry blender to cut in the cold butter.
Just like biscuit dough, scone dough turns out best with minimal handling.
We wanted to cut the butter into the dry ingredients just enough to end up with a hodgepodge mixture of bits and flakes no larger than pea-size.
The addition of cold buttermilk would bind everything together and bring tenderness and tang to the finished product.
“What is buttermilk?”
They had each tried the kid activity of shaking heavy cream in a jar to make butter, and remembered that there was liquid left over once the butter had formed. I explained that the leftover liquid is what we used to call buttermilk; the buttermilk of today is a cultured product, like yogurt.
They were all interested in trying it by itself, so I passed around some half-full cups.
I reminded them that yes, it is acidic which is why our scone recipe called for baking soda in addition to the baking powder; the soda was there to neutralize it.
It got 4 thumbs-up from 5 tasters.
Just like all heritage recipes, some scone recipes call for buttermilk and some don’t; it all depends on the baker’s preference. In our case, bring on the buttermilk!
A quick and gentle stir would bring all the ingredients together.
Our mixture still looked a tad dry and floury, so we chose to add a little more liquid until the dough formed slightly moist clumps.
We dumped the dough out onto the lightly floured table and quickly pushed and patted it into one mass.
Then we divided that into two
halves sort of equal rounds.
We discussed how to further divide each round into sixths.
“In half? Then two more cuts?”
The second round ended up in eighths, but it was the larger of the two anyway.
We had a tray of not exactly evenly portioned scones, and even though some of our wedges had become rounds there were no worries as we placed the tray into the fridge to chill.
Time to whip up the lemon curd.
Separating eggs is always fun.
And sometimes gross.
“It looks snotty.”
Egg yolks, sugar and salt were beaten together in a pot.
Then we added lemon zest, lemon juice and cubes of butter before everything went on the heat.
A little ro-sham-bo would decide the order at the stove.
The kids took turns stirring the mixture over low heat.
Somebody made a remark about scrambled eggs, and I pointed out that even though we had the pot over a direct flame, our eggs were far from scrambled. I explained that the sugar in the mixture raises the temperature at which the eggs would start coagulating. The result? Silky smooth lemon curd.
The curd needed so little time on the heat that we barely got through the queue. In fact, I had to surreptitiously turn off the flame so the curd wouldn’t overcook as the last two kids in line took their turns at stirring.
It was sufficiently cooked when the curd coated the back of the spatula. We drew a finger across it to test the thickness. Done!
We strained the lemon curd into a bowl and set it aside to cool.
I brushed the chilled scones with milk and then sprinkled the tops with a bit of crunchy turbinado sugar before sliding them into a hot oven.
Twenty-five minutes later we had lovely sandwiches of warm scones and tangy lemon curd.
Once the kids had devoured theirs, the moms were forced to defend their own plates from greedy little hands.
We so love our kids, but we do have our limits.
Buttermilk Scones adapted slightly from a recipe in Tartine, makes 12 large wedges
4 3/4 cup (24 oz) all-purpose flour
1 T aluminum-free baking powder
3/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 c (3 1/2 oz) granulated sugar
1 1/4 tsp salt
1 cup (8 oz) unsalted butter, cold and cut into approximately 1/2″ cubes
1 1/2 cups (12 oz) buttermilk, cold
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Whisk the dry ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. Scatter the cold butter over the mixture and use a pastry blender to cut it in. The finished mixture will be coarse, with bits of butter no larger than pea-size. Add the buttermilk all at once and mix gently, the dough should form slightly moist clumps. If the dough seems dry, add more buttermilk a little at a time. You should still be able to see some butter pieces. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide the dough into two portions and pat each into a round about 1 1/2″ thick. Cut each round into 6 equal wedges and transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Chill for 15 minutes. Brush the top of each scone with a little milk and sprinkle them with coarse sugar. Bake until the tops are lightly browned, 25 – 30 minutes. Serve warm.
Lemon Curd, original recipe by Russ Parsons
2 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup lemon juice
Zest of 1 lemon
6 tablespoons ( 3/4 stick) cold butter, cut into pieces
Put a small bowl in the refrigerator to chill. (You will use it later to cool the hot lemon curd.) In a small saucepan, beat the eggs, yolks, salt and sugar until smooth and light-colored.
Add the lemon juice, the lemon zest and butter and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the butter melts, about 2 minutes.
Reduce the heat to medium-low and continue cooking and stirring until the curd is thick enough that it coats the back of the spoon and when you draw your finger across the curd it leaves a definite track, about 5 minutes. The curd should be the consistency of thick hollandaise sauce. Pour it through a fine strainer into a chilled bowl and let stand to cool to room temperature.